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Between 1998 and 2004, natural and organic skin and body products experienced a 51% growth spurt, according to Packaged Facts MarketResearch.com. Since these products were unregulated, there was often confusion. Some products called themselves "natural," while others laid claim to "organic," sometimes with no good reason. For example, prior to regulation, a product could call itself organic even if it was composed of 90% water (a so-called organic ingredient) - with no other organic active ingredients. Paula Begoun, author of Don't Go Shopping for Hair-Care Products Without Me describes the dilemma that consumers faced prior to governmental regulation. Adding "drops of vitamins" and "dashes of lavender" to chemical formulations was "a charade in which the (formulating) chemist (and) company participated," she complained. To correct this misleading situation, (at the request of numerous manufacturers of natural and organic topical products), the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) instituted new organic standards for skin and body care in August 2005. Now, consumers can purchase skin, body, and hair products with the Organic Seal.

The Organic Seal offers two different kinds of product guarantees. If a product contains 95% organic ingredients, it can be labeled as "organic." If it only contains at least 75% and up to 94% organic ingredients, then instead it can be labeled as "made with organic ingredients." Ingredients included in that other 5 - 25% are also regulated by law, and conform to the organic food standards.

Central to organic production are certain do' s and don'ts. First of all, organic plants are never grown with commercial pesticides or hormones, due to concerns about human health and environmental impacts. Although science has yet to prove that organics are healthy, it does indicate why exposures to certain substances in non-organic products could be harmful. For example, in a recent study published in the medical journal, Epidemiology, researchers found that exposure to a compound derived from pesticides may be associated with male infertility since it "reduced levels of circulating testosterone in adult men." Other studies show that pesticides in the soil, water, and air are harmful to wildlife, and environmentally conscious consumers also take that into account in their product selections.

In organic farming, there are certain substances that farmers avoid. The basic don'ts are using synthetic pesticides, hormones, genetically modified crops, and chemical products. Like organic foods, organic topical products derive from plants that are grown without those substances. The basic do' s follow traditional agricultural practices that enrich the soil, use resources in an environmentally sound manner, and treat livestock humanely. Of course, cosmetics and skin care use only a few animal products (like lanolin which comes from sheep)-- but numerous plant products-- and either 75% or 95% of these must be grown organically for a product to merit one of the two different kinds of organic designation.

Although currently there are no long-term studies documenting the effects of using topical organic products or ingredients, organic consumers are just as interested in what their products do not contain, as in what they do contain. That's why, first of all, the organic label assures that the key cleansing and conditioning ingredients be derived from organically grown plant products, rather than conventionally grown plants, synthetic chemicals, or petroleum by-products. Secondly, organic products aim to exclude or minimize any ingredients that could be considered potentially harmful to people, animals, waterways, or the environment.

Although most of us don't give it much thought, the pesticide by-products from agricultural production leave residues in the environment. So do the soaps, shampoos, creams, sunscreens, and other products we use on our faces and bodies. These wash down the drain when we bathe and enter the water supply. From there they enter the ground water, soil, and air where humans, wildlife, animals and plants are exposed to them. One study found that in a single year Germany alone produced 559,000 tons of personal care products. The waste from these products can add up. That's why organic products aim to exclude certain specific ingredients, which are deemed to have a potentially troublesome impact on the environment. While I'll not go into a lengthy description of these here, I'll aim to get more specific in future newsletters.

In some cases, the exclusions are research-based, and in other cases, they are based on the "precautionary principle" which holds that until the cumulative impacts and exposures to a wide range of ingredients can be fully assessed, it' s best to err on the side of caution and limit use.

For example, though many chemical ingredients used in cosmetics are widely considered safe for use, some factors of safety have not been fully studied. it's virtually impossible to assess the cumulative effects of repeated exposures from multiple sources.

On average women use seven or more skin, hair, and beauty products per day. The ingredients in those various products could potentially interact, or lead to a higher combined rate of exposure to certain ingredients, than is usually assessed by studying the safety of a single ingredient in the laboratory. As a result, current definitions of safe long-term exposure levels could potentially require readjustment.

For example, in a recent animal study published in Environmental Health Perspectives, a University of California at Berkeley professor exposed frogs to conditions similar to the multiple pesticide exposures they receive in their habitat, and compared the results with lab tests documenting the impact on them of a single pesticide. He found that the actual multiple exposures were far more detrimental than previously suspected. When tadpoles were exposed to a single common pesticide, only 4% died; but when they were exposed to all nine of the pesticides found in their cornfield habitat, 35% of them died. According to a January 2006 article in the L.A. Times, other biologists concur that cumulative exposures like these may contribute to amphibian declines worldwide. "Too often and for too long, we've simplified the real-world exposures," said Donald Sparling, an aquatic toxicologist, at the Southern Illinois University. "We're finally getting a realistic picture of what's happening in the environment."

The same concerns can also apply to humans, but to accurately predict the levels of exposure received by one individual, it would be necessary to account for all chemical exposures from food, urban smog, industrial waste, and other sources. In a study conducted in conjunction with the PBS program, Trade Secrets, researchers at the Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York, found an average of 91 industrial compounds, pollutants, and other chemicals in the blood and urine of nine volunteers, (including producer Bill Moyers) with a total of 167 chemicals found. (Those tested did not work with chemicals or live near an industrial facility.)

According to the study designers, seventy-six of the chemicals cause cancer in humans or animals, 94 were toxic to the brain and nervous system, and 79 cause birth defects or abnormal development. In another study, researchers found an average of 200 industrial chemicals and pollutants in umbilical cord blood from ten babies, revealing a total of 287 chemicals. The umbilical cord blood, collected by Red Cross, contained pesticides, consumer product ingredients, and wastes from burning coal, gasoline, and garbage. The dangers of exposure to these chemicals in combination has never been studied. While these chemicals were not the ones present in personal care products, to establish the baseline of the chemical exposures people can safely tolerate, we must also take into account all of these other exposures, which are out of our control.

Obviously, the costs of testing are too high for individuals and are not part of routine tests at this time. This makes it hard for each of us to assess our own particular health care risks. That's why many organic consumers choose to wherever possible limit chemical exposures as a precaution, including in their topical care. People with allergies and illnesses may also choose to be more cautious.

Connecting the dots between possible exposures and long term health risks is hard to do - even in epidemiological studies (the study of long term population wide health changes.) A scientist who authored an Environmental Protection Agency Report on chemical pollution, points out that, "Change can occur so slowly that it appears to result from natural events& It is difficult to connect & cause and ultimate effect, (especially when the effects may at first be subtle and when they arises from a series of) numerous, unrelated interactions."

While not all widely used synthetic ingredients are considered problematic, certain ones have been more targeted for concern. For example, the parabens (alkyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid) are used as preservatives in many cosmetics and skin, hair, and body care products, and can sometimes produce allergic reactions. -- which is why I list them as "ingredients to avoid" for many sensitive Baumann Skin Types. Parabens can be absorbed via the skin and travel into the bloodstream and bodily tissue. One controversial study even found high concentrations of parabens in breast cancer tissue.

Another ingredient, toluene, found in many brands of nail polish has been shown to have detrimental effects on males in utero. That's why major companies like L'Oreal and Revlon have taken steps to eliminate toluene from their nail polishes - as have natural and organic brands. Toluene can also cause a skin rash, characteristically on the eyelids, in people who use toluene containing nail polishes.

Here I'm mentioning only two ingredients, out of the many in use. To be certified organic, a product must omit a wide variety of common ingredients including parabens, petroleum products, genetically modified plant products, and a range of other synthetic chemicals. While a product certified as organic meets the strictest standards, many companies aim to minimize product ingredients that are either untested or harmful. So if you cannot find an organic version of a product you seek, you can also opt for a "natural" product. How to rate those? You can find an on-line safety guide (based on ingredient research data as well as data gaps) at http://www.ewg.org/reports/skindeep2/info_about.php Here you can search a wide range of skin care and cosmetic products to learn your best options.

Obviously, the vast majority of products on the market do contain synthetic ingredients, and while decades of use have not revealed them to be harmful, a few ingredients have not been thoroughly tested, so that if you want to practice the precautionary principle, or if you are allergic, have sensitive skin, or a health problem, you now have the opportunity of turning to organic products - if you can find ones that are right for your Baumann Skin Type.

But remember, if you find a product that claims to be "natural," or boasts "natural" ingredients, that's no guarantee that it's organic. Yes, the product may contain aloe, vitamin E, or other natural ingredients, but it may also contain chemicals like those mentioned to preserve the product or improve its texture. For some consumers, that may not be a concern, but if you want your product to be truly organic, look for the Organic Seal.

Although the seal will guarantee that a product is organic, when it comes to problematic ingredients, neither conventional, natural, nor organic products are immune. For instance, many natural and organic brands contain certain fragrances and essential oils, which can cause dermatitis. Oil of bergamot, and balsam of peru are both highly allergenic, so even an organic product containing them could irritate sensitive individuals. Organic products containing strong essential oils like peppermint or rosemary may irritate or inflame your skin if you are a sensitive Skin Type. Chamomile, a gentle and soothing herb for many people, can induce allergies in some people (who may also tend to be allergic to wheat.)

Moreover, both conventional and some natural products contain a "perfume mix" to mask their odor. The ingredients of this perfume mix are rarely listed on the product label since each company uses its own proprietary blend. Some people, especially allergic individuals or those with sensitive skin may react to one or more ingredients, as well as to the blend itself. Even a product listed as 95% organic could contain a perfume mix problematic for certain individuals. What's more, for people concerned about the environment, it's been found that some synthetic fragrances used in these mixes, can impact animals in nature. Most worrisome are synthetic musks, which researchers have found in the sea rivers and aquatic animals, as well as in the air. That's why Japan and Germany have banned certain musk compounds.

Whether or not your skin product is conventional, natural, or organic, it comes down to using the right ingredients for your Baumann Skin Type, and avoiding the wrong ones. Even when a product is natural or organic, there is no guarantee that its ingredients will be right for you. For example, some organic consumers seek to avoid genetically modified soy, and organic products cannot contain GMO ingredients. An organic body lotion containing whole soy oil could be right for you if you have non-pigmented skin. But, if you have pigmented skin, that same product could increase your tendency to melasma and pigmentation. For pigmented Skin Types, you cannot obtain soy's benefits, unless the soy is fractionated to remove the pigment-inducing estrogenic components. That's why using non-organic products, containing fractionated soy, called "active soy," may be a better choice for your skin. For instance, Aveeno's Positively Radiant line, which provides soy without soy's pigment-inducing components, is a godsend for pigmented Skin Types. Several Neutrogena products also contain "active soy."

Similarly, new products containing fractionated feverfew remove a blister-inducing component of feverfew to deliver that herb's anti-aging benefits to skin. In this case, the purely natural herb is problematic, while the lab-refined version offers improvement.

Certain powerful ingredients are, frankly, chemicals, such as retin-A and retinoids, which are needed by wrinkled Skin Types. If you need them, you will not find analogous organic products. However, you can opt to apply your retinoid along with a natural product like a Jurlique Herbal Recovery Gel, and enhance your exposure to beneficial ingredients, while limiting your use of synthetic ingredients to the ones you really need. Jurlique is a great example of a company that, while not currently certified as "organic," does their utmost to make a pure product line, especially beneficial to sensitive Skin Types.

My rule of thumb is this: if a certain ingredient is good for you, and you find it in an organic product, go for it. On the other hand, if you cannot find the key ingredients that your skin needs in organic products, then I would advise that you consider broadening your options. Even if you use a majority of organic products, you can always make an exception for a natural or conventional product of true benefit.

For instance, my patient, Marie was a dry, wrinkled Skin Type. Green tea is a highly beneficial ingredient for this type. Marie did her homework and found two products containing good concentrations of green tea. One was a regular product and the other was organic. I advised Marie to choose the organic product because she was getting the best of both worlds, the ingredients she needed in the formulation that was the most healthy and natural.

On the other hand, Sophie ate organic foods, wore organic clothes, and even made fed her cat, Missie, "wild" fish and free-range chicken. However, she was an oily, wrinkle-prone Skin Type who would really benefit from the use of retinoids. I advised her to opt for the retinoid, but select an organic toner and a natural SPF facial powder for daily use. She was able to find these, and again, care for her skin, while caring for the planet.

A third patient, Lydia, couldn't have cared less about organic products, the environment, or anything related to that. Her sole concern was what would work for her skin. She purchased organic products, hoping that they would be more gentle to her skin. When she took the Baumann Skin Typing Questionnaire, she scored very high on the sensitive/resistant scale. A dry, sensitive Skin Type, she found that many products and ingredients caused her skin to flake and redden. Without skin patch allergy testing, we could not absolutely predict which ingredients would irritate her, and even some of the mildest options did not work for her. After unsuccessful tries with a few moisturizers, she finally gave up on organic products and tried the Dove face care line, which soothed and hydrated her skin, and strengthened her skin barrier-- plus she loved the smell. She became a convert. "I want to buy stock in this company!" she told me.

The bottom line is: if you take a little more care in product selection, you can find the right blend of products, that meet your Skin Type's needs, and reflect your values. If you want to "go organic" , fine, just make sure you find products with ingredients right for your Skin Type. Ingredients listed by Baumann Skin Type are contained in each chapter of my book The Skin Type Solution.

What if you are new to organic products and wonder if you should give them a try? By all means, do so, if you'd like to and you can find ones that are right for your Skin Type. And if you do, please let me know about the ones that work for you-- and the ones that don't! www.skintypesolutions.com has a section called "Recommend a Product" where you can tell me your favorite discoveries.

On this site, and in future issues of this newsletter, I'll provide updates on products that meet your needs. Whatever your Skin Type and whatever your stance, conventional, natural, or organic, there are products that are right for you, and it' s my aim to help you find them! I welcome you to shop online for skin care at www.Baumannstore.com. A portion of the proceeds go to dermatology research to learn more about this and other skin care issues.

Wishing you great skin!

Leslie Baumann MD