Pass any beauty counter, or the supplements section of your health food store, or drugstore, and you can’t miss the fact that many products in numerous categories boast antioxidants—but you may not know what they are or why they are so important.

To understand the critical role they play in health and beauty, let’s take a look at what causes aging in general, and skin aging in particular. In 1956, some researchers first offered a theory that is now widely accepted: prime contributors to aging are “free radicals,” which cause “oxidative stress,” a kind of cellular wear and tear that over a lifetime damages the skin, and other bodily systems. This wear and tear comes from the breakdown of oxygen, which has both an up and a down side. We breathe oxygen, so obviously it’s necessary for life. On the other hand, free radicals are renegade oxygen molecules that are missing electrons. (Oxygen likes to have an even number of electrons.  When it loses an electron and has an odd number of them, oxygen is unhappy). As a result the “reactive” oxygen  scavenges through your body and “steals” electrons from vital cells like your DNA, your bodily stores of protein, and also from your actual cell membranes. This resulting tissue breakdown caused by oxygen gone awry is key to the aging process—which is why I am not a fan of oxygen-containing skin creams.

What causes the free radicals to increase? A wide range of factors, including UV radiation from the sun, air pollution, cigarette smoke (from active or passive inhalation), ozone, and even oxygen itself.  Iron in vitamins and excessive alcohol consumption can also lead to free radical production. Although there are some factors that we can avoid, such as cigarette smoking and sun exposure, there are many other factors promoting the development of free radicals that we cannot avoid. That means we must treat them.

Antioxidants protect cells from oxidative stress by donating an extra electron to oxygen, giving it the even number of electrons that it craves.  Once balanced, the oxygen won’t attack the vital skin structures, or cause damage to other bodily tissues. But what’s the best way for you to access antioxidants? Studies suggest that it’s best to use them topically (in skin creams) and orally (by consuming antioxidant-containing supplements or antioxidant-rich fresh fruits and vegetables).  People who test out as a “Wrinkled” Skin Type using the Baumann Skin Typing system found in the book The Skin Type Solution, should regularly include antioxidants in their diet and skin care routines.

Here are some examples of antioxidants to look for:

• Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): The right forms of Vitamin C are hard to stabilize in formulations so effective products may cost more.  Look for products packaged in a small mouthed tube which blocks air entry. Make sure the container will prevent penetration from UV light. Amber glass bottles or opaque packaging are good choices.  My favorite brands are Skinceuticals C E Ferulic and La Roche Posay Active C because they are formulated and packaged properly.  You can also take Vitamin C supplements orally, working from the inside out and the outside in.
  
  
• Vitamin E (tocopherol): Easily stabilized, Vitamin E is often added to creams because it both moisturizes and offers antioxidant protection.  Some forms of tocopherol have been associated with allergic reactions. Since many people squeeze the contents of a Vitamin E supplement on burns or scars to improve to help their appearance, in 1995, I participated in a study that examined the impact of Vitamin E application on surgical scars. We wanted to see if it made them look better. It did not. Moreover, we found that 30% of the patients developed redness and itching where the Vitamin E was applied.  Taking Vitamin E supplements is also an option but they affect your blood clotting system so you they may increase the tendency to bruise. There are many good brands that contain Vitamin E.  You do not have to splurge on these products because expensive is not better in this case.
  
  
• Coenzyme Q10: This easy to formulate ingredient is found in many great products including Eucerin and Nivea.  In addition to its antioxidant action, Co Q10 helps the cells make energy so it is used as a supplement to treat congestive heart disease. When taken as an oral supplement, it has a caffeine-like effect, so make sure to take it in the morning.
  
  
• Idebenone: Though structurally similar to coenzyme Q10, this ingredient is stable, easily absorbed, and relatively simple to formulate.  Allergic reactions have been reported. Idebenone is found in 0.5% formulation in Elizabeth Arden Prevage and in a 1% formulation in Allergan’s Prevage MD.
  
  
• Green Tea: Many studies have shown the antioxidant power of green tea. High stable in formulation, it’s found in many cosmetic products, though often in amounts too small to be effective. Products containing an adequate amount of green tea, will look brown, so look for brown-colored creams such as Replenix from Topix. Drinking green tea can be beneficial to other organs as well as your skin.  However, drinking large amounts of green tea can make you more likely to bruise. A few green tea supplements are now coming onto the market. Dr. Brandt’s green tea antioxidant booster allows you to use a dropper to add the green tea to your water.  Hot green tea can taste bitter if the water that is used is too hot.

* Other antioxidants include lycopene, lutein, pomegranate extract, and grape seed extract.

Remember that antioxidants PREVENT wrinkles, but they don’t treat wrinkles that you already have.  Many companies imply that their antioxidant containing creams improve wrinkles but any wrinkle change you see is due to the moisturizing effects of the product and not due to the antioxidants.

Please visit www.16skintypes.com if you have any questions. I will be happy to answer them!

Thanks for joining me,

Leslie Baumann MD