In This Issue:
By the end of this month, we'll be welcoming spring once again. But how has your skin fared this winter? For some of us, dry skin is a year-round issue; for others, tight, itchy skin tends to strike during the low-humidity winter months. You probably know the major saboteurs of your skin's hydration – winter's combination of dry winds and ever-present heaters, for example – so let's run down hidden threats you might not consider:
The Best Products You've
Never Heard Of
Give these products a try to make the most of your skin care regimen. Facial water and cleansing oil are great options for dry skin types, and the variety of serums on the market now offer nourishing active ingredients to moisturizer-averse oily types.
Facial water: Spray these pure waters (free of tap-water chemicals) on your face immediately before moisturizing, and you'll trap a reservoir of water on your skin. Ideal for dry skin types, they're also a great option for anyone in a low-humidity environment. I like Evian Mineral Water Spray and La Roche-Posay Thermal Spring Water.
Cleansing oil: Sounds incongruous, eh? Nevertheless, these products are wonderful for very dry skin types for whom any foaming or sudsing cleanser is simply too harsh - and they've been popular in Asia for years, so it's no fly-by-night trend! I like Shu Uemura Skin Purifier Cleansing Oil.
Serum: Many companies have developed facial serums to deliver ingredients in a concentrated form (look for dropper-style bottles). There's one for everyone, but serums are particularly appealing to oily skin types, as they offer high percentages of active ingredients without the greasiness of moisturizer. For type-specific recommendations, check out my book, The Skin Type Solution.
It may seem like water is water, but the amount of time you spend soaking can make a big difference. Studies have shown that prolonged exposure to water (in the ballpark of an hour or more) can undermine your skin's ability to hold water. Water temperature is another important factor. If you suffer from dry skin, I recommend showers and baths of no more than 5-10 minutes in lukewarm (not hot!) water.
As any savvy shopper knows, reading labels is the key to getting what you want. If you suffer from dry skin – regularly or temporarily – avoid products that list alcohol among the first seven ingredients. (Of course, it's rarely as simple as looking for alcohol. Look for specific ingredients like ethyl alcohol, ethanol, methanol, and isopropyl alcohol.) There is one exception to the rule, though: glycol, an alcohol that helps your moisturizer's active ingredients penetrate the skin. And while you're at it, check that label for lauryl sulfates too – those drying detergents should be avoided.
Another factor to consider is aging. Your skin is a dynamic organ, and there's no doubt that it will change over the course of your life – so if you're certain you have oily skin but start noticing periods of dryness, listen to your body and reassess the products you're using.
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Lipids: The Big Three
Your epidermis's middle layers – what I like to call the skin barrier – are made primarily of three lipids: 40% ceramides, 25% fatty acids, and 20% cholesterol. The job of these lipids (a.k.a. fats) is to retain moisture and hold your skin cells together like a sort of glue. When the skin barrier is damaged, moisture is lost to the environment and your skin cells, no longer held together as efficiently, begin to curl up around the edges. The result? Skin that appears dull and flaky, eventually even cracked.
Not surprisingly, many companies have learned how to deliver these critical lipids topically. You'll have to spend some cash for the opportunity, but in this case, consider it a worthwhile investment. First things first – make sure you're getting the ingredients you're paying for: Fatty acids often come in the form of oils, like borage seed oil, primrose oil, olive oil, and sunflower oil. You can also look for ingredients like shea butter and jojoba. Ceramide is usually listed simply as ceramide, and cholesterol will appear as either cholesterol or sterol.
But while any of these ingredients will confer some benefits, the most effective moisturizers contain all three lipids. More importantly, studies have shown that all three must be present in the right ratio to maintain a watertight skin barrier. My top recommendation is ATOPALM MLE Cream (pictured); Tri Ceram, although too greasy to use regularly on the face, is a great body moisturizer. Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Moisture Network Night Cream, MD Skincare Hydra-Pure™ Intense Moisture Cream, and CeraVe all contain ceramides. MD Formulations Moisture Defense Antioxidant Eye Crème and Rodan and Fields Anti-Age PM Cream contain cholesterol.
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Myth: You may have read that drinking lots of water hydrates your skin. Wrong. Despite numerous other benefits of water-drinking, the only way to hydrate your skin is to target the glue that holds it together: lipids.
Achieve Radiant Skin From the Inside Out
Careful cleansing? Check. Type-specific moisturizer? Check. A diet that bolsters all your hydrating efforts? If you can't confidently check off that last one, then your routine could have critical gaps. Many of the ingredients you'll find in your skin care products occur naturally – deliver them topically and in your diet, and you'll double their nourishing effects on your skin:
- Eat your fruits and vegetables: Mom was right. Fruits and veggies contain the antioxidants your skin needs to fight free radicals, pesky molecules that break down the biochemicals safeguarding your skin's hydration. You can apply antioxidants in topical products (I like the Skinceuticals line of antioxidant-rich serums), and you can also find them in berries, spinach, green tea, and a multitude of other foods.
- Make omega-3 part of your diet: In addition to replenishing the skin barrier topically, simple changes to your diet can ensure that you're getting enough of the lipids your skin needs. Replenish the lipids, and you'll repair your skin's natural ability to retain water. Omega-3 fats are readily available in supplement form, and in foods like salmon and flaxseed.
On a final note, pay careful attention to any changes in your skin if you begin taking medications. Many people on cholesterol-lowering drugs, for example, notice their skin becoming drier. (Remember, cholesterol accounts for about 20% of the lipids in your skin barrier.) Several birth-control pills are also associated with decreased oil secretion, which could change where you fall on the dry-oily scale. If you change the chemistry of your skin from the inside, you may need to change the products you use on the outside.
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Q: When I took the questionnaire in The Skin Type Solution, I scored very high on the O scale. I've read elsewhere, though, that everyone needs to use some sort of moisturizer. I hate how greasy they make my skin feel – any thoughts? (asked via www.skintypesolutions.com)
A: I'm a big proponent of paying attention to your specific skin type and its needs – and if it's telling you it doesn't need moisturizer, listen to it! High-scorers on the oily scale often don't. However, don't take that as license to skip sunscreen. Since many moisturizers contain SPF these days, eliminating that step could lead you to neglect proper sun protection. Instead, use a gel sunscreen or try a powder or foundation that contains SPF (I like i.d. bareMinerals foundation or Neutrogena Healthy Defense Protective Powder). Finally, remember to listen to your skin all the time – in dry, cold, or windy climates, you will still need to use a moisturizer to protect your skin.
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Wishing you great skin!
Sincerely,
Dr. Leslie Baumann
