The good news is that dermatologists and consumers alike are increasingly aware that what you put in your body has a direct impact on your skin's appearance. But the bad news is that your local drugstore's vitamin section has started to rival the makeup aisle for variety... and complexity! Let's take a look at some of the most common supplements being tossed around the beauty and skin care world these days, and examine just what benefits they really confer on your skin's health and appearance.
Remember, I'm focusing on supplements and your skin -- many of these nutrients have benefits beyond the scope of this newsletter. Furthermore, it is important that you always discuss new supplements with your physician, particularly if you are pregnant, breast-feeding, or undergoing treatment for any medical conditions.
Sure, by now you know that supplements are a great way to keep your body functioning well -- and that includes your largest organ: skin! To get the most from whatever supplements you choose to take, do your research and follow a few key tips:
- Stick to large, well-known brands like GNC or Nature Made.
- You might also find it useful to research supplements that are made or sold in Germany, which has much stricter regulations for dietary supplements than the United States.
- Get online! Websites like ConsumerLab.com (which performs independent studies assessing the contents of a wide variety of supplement brands) and DrWeil.com (my personal favorite resource for dietary information) are full of useful research and advice.
- Keep dietary restrictions in mind when you're purchasing supplements -- some products contain yeast, gluten, and shellfish, for example.
- Store your supplements in a cool dark place -- heat and light can compromise some vitamins and minerals.
In This Issue:
Alpha Lipoic Acid
What it is: Small amounts of this acid are produced naturally by the body, but when present in excess (as a result of a supplement, for example) it may help prevent a variety of diseases. More research is required, though, to better understand that defensive role.
What it does: Among various other purported benefits, many alpha lipoic acid supplements claim to help smooth skin and fight the signs of aging.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Alpha lipoic acid was once thought to be an antioxidant, but that notion was called into question by a study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology. While alpha lipoic acid seems to have a positive impact on energy, and on a variety of health conditions, I do not recommend it for skin-related concerns.
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Antioxidants
What they are: While there are many individual antioxidants on this list, I'm referring here to various products that offer a blend of antioxidants. Dr. Brandt Antioxidant Water Booster, for example, comes in a dropper-style bottle and can be added to your beverage of choice. Imedeen Time Perfection tablets include antioxidants like vitamin C and grape seed extract. (My favorite individual antioxidant is coenzyme Q10 -- see below for more on this.)
What they do: Like all antioxidants, these products are excellent for fighting free radicals -- that is, molecules with an uneven number of electrons that cause damage to cell membranes, lipids, proteins, and DNA. (In a nutshell, free radicals cause skin aging.)
Dr. Baumann's opinion: I'm a big fan! Antioxidants are crucial to an effective skin care regimen, and the convenience of these products makes them easy to take regularly.
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Arnica
What it is: Arnica is a plant-derived herbal supplement.
What it does: Due to its anti-inflammatory properties, arnica's primary skin care application is in the treatment and prevention of bruises.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: While taking arnica regularly offers little benefit to your skin, I do recommend it to patients before cosmetic procedures like dermal fillers. Take four homeopathic arnica pills labeled "with 30x dilution" 4-6 hours prior to a cosmetic procedure. High doses of oral arnica can be harmful, so do not exceed this dose and be sure to use the 30x dilution strength. Some people are sensitive to the compound helenalin found in arnica. If you develop a mild rash, you are probably helenalin-sensitive and should stop using arnica. Topical creams with arnica, like Donell Super Skin K-Derm Gel and Boiron Arnica Cream, will also help bruises heal more quickly.
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Biotin
What it is: Biotin is the vitamin also known as B7.
What it does: Studies have shown that biotin supplements (I recommend 2.5mg daily) can increase nail thickness up to 25%, minimizing nail breakage or flaking.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: I absolutely recommend biotin supplements to anyone whose nails seem to break or split at the slightest touch!
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Borage Seed Oil
What it is: Borage seed oil is an omega-6 fatty acid. It's rich in gamma-linolenic acid (a.k.a. GLA), which helps hydrate skin.
What it does: This supplement is particularly effective for soothing skin inflammation and redness.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Borage seed oil is an effective way to moisturize the skin and strengthen the skin barrier, which is the layer of lipids that holds moisture in your skin -- and keeps irritants out.
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Bromelain
What it is: Bromelain is a plant-derived enzyme, typically made from pineapple stems.
What it does: In the skin care realm, bromelain is best known as an anti-inflammatory.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: I always recommend that patients take 500mg of bromelain twice a day for three days after treatment with a dermal filler, to minimize bruising. While it's not necessary for everyone to add this to their daily routine, those who bruise easily might want to consider it.
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Caffeine (Caffeic Acid)
What it is: Technically, caffeine is a chemical compound called an alkaloid. It is both a stimulant and a diuretic, found in the beans and leaves of various plants.
What it does: In addition to helping jump-start your day in its coffee form, caffeine is actually an antioxidant. In topical products (such as La Roche Posay Rosaliac and Replenix CF cream), caffeine is a highly effective anti-inflammatory and constricts veins to minimize facial flushing. But research also suggests that caffeine consumed orally also has anti-inflammatory and anticarcinogenic benefits. (On a related note, coffeeberry, which comes from the fruit of the coffee plant, is getting a lot of attention lately as the next big antioxidant. It is only available in topical products, though, and not through oral supplements. The skin care line that contains Coffeeberry is called Revaleskin and is sold through dermatologists by the company Stiefel.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Go ahead and enjoy green tea or coffee in moderation. Just remember that caffeine is also dehydrating, and be sure to drink plenty of water alongside your favorite caffeinated beverages. And if you're prone to facial flushing, consider iced drinks -- hot ones may exacerbate your facial redness. Look for skin care products that contain caffeine or Coffeeberry.
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Coenzyme Q10
What it is: Coenzyme Q10 is a powerful antioxidant.
What it does: Studies at the University of Miami have shown that coenzyme Q10 may plan a role in treating skin cancer. Furthermore, it's an effective anti-inflammatory and helps fight skin aging. It is a popular treatment for gum disease due to its anti-inflammatory activity and congestive heart failure due to its ability to increase cell energy (ATP). It can also be found in skin care creams by Eucerin and Nivea.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: I take 200mg every morning -- and always in the morning, due to its caffeine-like effect! It's particularly important that people on statin cholesterol-lowering drugs consider this supplement, as those drugs lower natural levels of coenzyme Q10. Low levels of coenzyme Q10 can lead to tiredness and muscle cramping.
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Evening Primrose Oil
What it is: Evening primrose oil is an omega-6 fatty acid. It's rich in gamma-linolenic acid (a.k.a. GLA), which helps hydrate skin.
What it does: This supplement is excellent for soothing skin inflammation and irritation, including chronic skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and even acne.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: The research into evening primrose oil is good, and it is an effective way to moisturize and nourish the skin. In particular, I recommend adding it to your regimen if you experience frequent skin irritation. Dr. Weil has a nice one that I use.
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Glucosamine
What it is: Typically derived from the shells of shellfish (although synthetic versions are also available), glucosamine is an amino sugar and an important component of cartilage.
What it does: Glucosamine supplements have been shown to help rebuild cartilage -- and hyaluronic acid is an important component of cartilage. If glucosamine can stimulate production of hyaluronic acid in the joints, then it can likely do it in your skin too! Evidence suggests that you can start to see its effects -- in the form of increased skin fullness and decreased wrinkles -- in as little as 4-6 weeks.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: I recommend 1500mg each day, particularly if you're over the age of 35. Murad makes several supplements, specially designed for the skin, that contain glucosamine. He published a study showing that the supplements decrease fins skin wrinkles. You can also find stand-alone forms of this supplement at any drugstore. Olay Definity Face cream contains glucosamine.
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Horse Chestnut Extract
What it is: There are several varieties of horse chestnut -- and it occurs as both a tree and a bush -- but the variety most often used for medicinal purposes is the European horse chestnut.
What it does: Horse chestnut is commonly included in topical products for its anti-inflammatory properties. In its oral form, it can effectively improve circulatory problems like varicose veins and leg cramping. Some studies suggest that horse chestnut may also have antioxidant properties.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: While I don't believe there's enough evidence to consider topical horse chestnut extract an effective antioxidant, it has been proven to improve inflammation and circulatory discomfort in its oral form. I would encourage anyone to consult a physician before taking oral horse chestnut supplements, however, as it is not right for everyone. (For example, it is not suitable for people taking anticoagulant drugs.)
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Hyaluronic Acid
What it is: One of the three major building blocks of your dermis, hyaluronic acid holds onto moisture, giving skin fullness and radiance. It occurs naturally in the skin, and is also the main component of several popular and effective dermal fillers.
What it does: Hyaluronic acid supplements -- that is, pills taken orally -- claim to fight the breakdown of hyaluronic acid, which naturally occurs as we age.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Hyaluronic acid is broken down in stomach, and I do not believe that these supplements are effective. Topical creams with HA cannot penetrate the skin, so they are mediocre skin creams- look for ones containing glycerin instead. HA must be injected to treat wrinkles, and is the active ingredient in the very effective dermal fillers Restylane, Perlane and Juvederm.
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Iron
What it is: Iron is an important mineral for all-around good health.
What it does: This mineral is necessary to produce hemoglobin, the component of your blood that distributes oxygen throughout your body. As far as dermatological benefits, studies suggest that low iron levels may lead to hair loss, so an iron supplement could help control that condition.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Always talk to your doctor if you're considering adding more iron to your diet than a typical multivitamin contains, as there is a risk of taking too much. A physician can check your ferritin levels to determine if a supplement is necessary. Furthermore, too much iron can create free radicals, which attack vital skin components (like collagen and elastin) and actually speed skin aging. In other words- only take iron supplements if your doctor determines that your iron levels are low. Spinach and red meat are great sources as well.
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Lycopene
What it is: Lycopene is a form of vitamin A found most commonly in tomatoes.
What it does: Lycopene's strong antioxidant properties have received a great deal of research attention for over a decade. In addition to various other health benefits, lycopene has been shown to minimize the skin damage and redness associated with sun exposure.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Although the efficacy of topical lycopene and oral lycopene supplements is still unclear, including lycopene in the diet has been proven to confer important antioxidant benefits. Better whip up a big pot of spaghetti and tomato sauce tonight or even better- mozzarella caprese! I love this night cream by Kiehls that contains lycopene (For dry skin types). They have a lotion form for those with combination skin.
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Q: Coenzyme Q10, coffeeberry, cranberry... it seems like every day I read about a great new antioxidant. Should I be skeptical, or are all of these antioxidants really everything they're cracked up to be?
A: I applaud you for taking such a considered approach to skin care -- it's true that new research comes out every day, and discoveries are often touted as the "latest and greatest" before sufficient long-term research has been performed. Rest assured that antioxidants are proven to be among the most important preventive ingredients in the skin care arsenal. And when it comes to antioxidants, you don't need to pick just one. In fact, incorporating a variety into your routine is the best approach. (In fact, research suggests that certain combinations of antioxidants -- lycopene and vitamin E, for example -- are more effective than either antioxidant would be alone.)
Currently, the best-researched antioxidants, and my top recommendations, are green tea, vitamin C, and coenzyme Q10, all of which are available in skin care products and through diet and supplements. That's not to say, though, that I don't use and recommend others. Coffeeberry, for example, is a new antioxidant found in the skin care line Revaleskin and idebenone is found in Prevage. So go ahead and try new arrivals on the antioxidant scene... just be sure to keep using some of these more established options.
In addition to using a variety of antioxidants, remember that a combination of oral and topical antioxidants is the best way to strengthen and protect your skin (not to mention the rest of your body!). If you regularly incorporate antioxidants into your skin care regimen (some of my favorite products include SkinCeuticals' C E Ferulic serum and Nivea's Skin Firming Moisturizer with coenzyme Q10) and into your diet (I drink three cups of green tea a day and eat plenty of veggies and fruits, particularly berries), you'll be making a wonderful investment in your skin's health and appearance. By the way- oral supplements that help your skin- often help your arteries too- so we are talking about whole body health. The recognition of the health benefits of oral supplements has led to an explosion in the “health drink market”- but that’s a topic for a future newsletter….
Niacin
What it is: Niacin is the vitamin also known as B3.
What it does: This vitamin has an important role in metabolism, and is also necessary for healthy functioning of the skin and nervous system.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Although niacin supplements may be prescribed for other health reasons, there is no skin-related reason to take more than what you'll get from a typical multivitamin. In fact, flushing can be an unpleasant side effect of niacin supplements. Niacinamide, on the other hand, is one of my favorite skin care ingredients -- this topical form of niacin repairs the damage that external saboteurs (like the sun) can do to your skin's DNA, and is an effective treatment for hyperpigmentation and dry skin, among other things. Niacinamide is found in Olay Definity and Olay Regenerist products. A similar vitamin is found in Nia24 products.
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Omega-3 Fatty Acids
What they are: Although they are not produced naturally in the body, these fats are a crucial component of cell membranes. They are also one of the main components of your skin barrier -- the outer layer of skin that helps keep moisture in and potential irritants out.
What they do: Omega-3s' anti-inflammatory properties help combat redness and skin irritation -- many studies have shown that they can even help soothe chronic skin conditions like psoriasis and rosacea. Their hydrating properties are great for plumping up your skin and minimizing the appearance of fine lines. There is also some evidence that omega-3s bolster your skin's defenses against sun damage.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Get omega-3s from any source you can! In addition to filling your diet with them through fatty fish like salmon, I recommend 1,000mg per day of supplements like cod liver oil or flax seed oil. My favorite cod liver oil is the lemon flavored one from Carlson. Don't worry -- you can't get too many omega-3s.
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Polypodium Leucotomos
What it is: Polypodium leucotomos is the extract of a type of fern.
What it does: Available most widely in a supplement known as Heliocare, this extract helps protect skin against ultraviolet damage. Researchers at Harvard University also found that polypodium leucotomos also decreases skin redness after sun exposure.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Heliocare is pricey, but if you can work it into your skin care budget, it's well worth it. I take it in the am if I know I will get some sun exposure. (I live in Miami Beach so this occurs frequently). I take two of them if I'm going to spend the day golfing!
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Selenium
What it is: Selenium is a trace mineral found naturally in the body and in various foods like meat, shellfish, cereals, and dairy products. It is also found in plant foods to varying degrees, depending on the selenium content of the soil in which plants are grown. Brazil nuts are high in selenium.
What it does: As an important antioxidant, selenium has powerful anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties; it can also help prevent cancer and appears to minimize skin damage from UV exposure in its oral form. As if that weren't enough, selenium is also essential to proper thyroid function.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Although more research is necessary, selenium in both oral and topical form seems to confer many benefits on the skin. It is used as a topical water to treat psoriasis, eczema and other inflammatory skin conditions in a spa in France dedicated to the treatment of these skin problems. We don't, however, need to consume very much selenium, and most multivitamins typically contain a sufficient amount. The recommended daily allowance of selenium for adults is 55 micrograms, and it can be harmful to take too much (generally, over 400 micrograms per day). In fact, excessive amounts of Selenium can lead to hair loss. Selenium is a component of the La Roche Posay Thermal Spring water.
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Vitamin A
What it is: Vitamin A is the common term for retinoids (Retin A and Accutane). While dermatologists most commonly discuss topical retinoids, vitamin A is also available in oral supplements and, of course, many foods.
What it does: While a full-range of vitamins is important for everyone, vitamin A is particularly beneficial for people with acne, as it can help decrease skin oiliness.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Vitamin A is an important part of any diet, but remember that there is a risk of taking too much -- there is rarely a reason to take more than you'll find in a good multivitamin. Instead, aim to get this vitamin through your diet with foods like leafy greens, broccoli, squash, carrots, and mangoes.
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Vitamin C
What it is: A mainstay of the antioxidants, vitamin C is also known as ascorbic acid.
What it does: In addition to its antioxidant duties, vitamin C is an effective anti-inflammatory. It can also boost your immune system and help prevent colds. Better yet, it can also help your skin produce collagen -- one of the primary goals of wrinkle prevention. This is because vitamin C must be present in order for collagen to be formed. In fact, adding vitamin C to skin cell cultures causes them to increase collagen production. When used topically, it is a skin lightener and is common used topically in Japan for this purpose. Topical Vitamin C has even been shown to help acne.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Vitamin C can be hard to stabilize in topical products, and the best ones are expensive. (I prefer Skinceuticals C E Ferulic). Taken by mouth, it is an inexpensive and effective oral supplement. There is no risk of taking too much vitamin C except stomach upset.
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Vitamin D
What it is: Perhaps best known as the vitamin skin produces when exposed to ultraviolet light, vitamin D is actually a hormone, and a powerful antioxidant. This vitamin has caused a recent controversy because several doctors have claimed that sunscreen leads to vitamin D deficiency. Elderly people often suffer from Vitamin D deficiency- so the older you are, the more likely you need to supplement this vitamin.
What it does: In addition to benefits to almost all your body's organ systems, vitamin D is often helpful in treating psoriasis. It plays a role in the psoriasis drug called Dovonex. Like all the antioxidants, it can also slow skin aging.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: If you are at a high-risk for skin cancer -- if you have red hair and freckles, for example, or a family history of skin cancer -- then I believe your safest bet is to avoid unprotected sun exposure and get your vitamin D in supplement form (and through your diet, although food rarely supplies enough of this vitamin). Remember, it only takes a few minutes of sun exposure each day to stimulate vitamin D production -- there is never a good reason to bake in the sun all day long! Instead, get your vitamin D through a daily supplement. Dr. Weil recommends 1000 IU of vitamin D per day.
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Vitamin E
What it is: Vitamin E is another powerful antioxidant which is also called tocopherol. It is fat soluble so you need to take it in a gel cap form. The gel caps are often broken open and used topically on burns and scars. Vitamin E is a component of skin oil (sebum) so those of you with oily skin benefit from it’s presence. (Less skin aging and skin cancer). The lips do not have oil glands so the lips are vitamin E deficient and are a likely site of skin cancer.
What it does: Along with vitamin C, vitamin E offers your skin's best defense against sun damage, protecting against skin cancer and wrinkles. It is also effective in minimizing skin dryness, particularly in people taking oral retinoids. Good food sources of vitamin E include vegetable oils, avocados, spinach, sunflower seeds, wheat germ, nuts, and whole grains. Vitamin E is found in many skin care products because it is inexpensive, easy to formulate and has a hydrating effect as well as an antioxidant effect.
Dr. Baumann's opinion: Vitamin E is an important part of any diet, but remember that there is a risk of taking too much -- follow dosing instructions closely. I recommend 400 IU a day. Make sure you buy a gel cap form. Vitamin E can make you more likely to bruise if you are taking high doses, so discontinue use 10 days prior to any cosmetic procedure (like Botox or dermal fillers, for example). I recommend using lip products with vitamin E because the lip needs extra vitamin.
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Wishing you great skin!
Dr. Leslie Baumann
Do you have a question? Come visit me at www.SkinTypeSolutions.com or
read my Yahoo blog at www.SkinGuru.com
